Food Fetish: Coffee

When Vancouver experienced a water shortage a few years back, the city's residents took it in stride.

We happily stopped watering our lawns. We jumped at the excuse to share steamy showers with friends and lovers. We gave in and bought over priced and wasteful bottled water. We went to the beach instead of the pool.

But when it came to coffee, we lost our minds.

At the café where I worked at the time, I was offered all manner of bribes to get that espresso machine up and running, muddy water and all. As much as $20 was waved in my face to whip up an Americano on the sly. Talk about addiction...but also, talk about LOVE!

Almost everyone I know loves coffee, but it's usually a conditional love, dependent on sweeteners, syrups and dairy to smooth the bumps of their affection.

This month's food fetish star, however, is a true Connoisseur. Miss Emilie Nagahama appreciates coffee in its rich unadulterated form. In her journeys she has uncovered the most delicious roasts, sourced the most ethical farms, and experimented with the best brewing methods available. When you are this meticulous, you are bound to hit on something very special.

We caught up with Emilie at Momento, deep in the heart of Kitsilano. As a special treat, photographer Vasho Pekar came along to document the evening. A member of SHAH, Vancouver's premium D&B crew, Vasho supplies brilliant visuals, and sharp photography. He's also known for his stimulating and brilliantly curated underground art shows. He beautifully captured our favourite Coffee Angel's craft.

V: Is there really much more behind coffee other than it's spectacular mood enhancing qualities?

EN: Absolutely. Lots of people drink coffee without ever really appreciating the actual ‘taste of coffee’. Crazy but it is true. A medium roast vs. a dark roast takes a bean in two very different directions.

Ultimately it comes down to your own personal preference, of course. But there is definitely a lot of marketing and blinding techniques used by big corporations. Mainly: in roasting beans dark as can be, the beans become more bitter, so you’re more likely to use cream/milk and sugar. These create an additional craving in the body other than caffeine.

V: Tricky! But even straight-up black coffee is touted as being a guilty pleasure. Is it that bad for you?

EN: There’s talk about our bodies not being alkaline enough these days. To be perfectly honest, dark roasts aren’t going to help on that front, and they are notoriously difficult to digest. Medium roasts on the other hand, allow you to explore the nuances of a coffee's flavour because it hasn't been completely cooked out. They're also easier on the gut. Drink a glass of water afterwards to ease digestion. If consumed in moderation, coffee is definitely an indulgence your body can handle.

V: "Cash Crops" have a pretty bad reputation these days, especially those imported to Canada from abroad. How can we fit coffee into our lives without supporting unethical practices?

EN: It's true, many people are not familiar with where coffee comes from, nor do they realize the lack of sustainable practices used to make coffee for the 'usual suspect' big corporations. Most farmers make next to nothing for their hard work.

It’s important to recognize the value in supporting Fair Trade, Direct Trade and Organic Farms. Under these systems, farmers and farm hands receive fairer treatment and wages, as well as greater security. Your favorite big name café may not be in line with these values – it’s something important to consider when purchasing coffee. In Vancouver we're lucky to have an abundance of cafés that serve Fair Trade coffees, so the choice is easy.

V: What drew you to the world of coffee making?

EN: I’ve been muddling about the coffee industry for the past few years uncovering the relationship between coffee farms and sustainable practices.

I love my work. It’s great to be able to impart the knowledge I've gained to the customer, rather than simply smile and send them on their way. I may not work as a Barista forever, but for the time being it’s my way of doing something beneficial to the sustainability movement while also gaining a greater appreciation for the things I choose to consume.

V: So what are some trade secrets on making the perfect cup?

EN: Making coffee is an art form that requires a lot of attention to detail as there are so many brewing variables. I love the environment in a café. There is always the opportunity to try something new and properly made. But it can add up to many dollars at the end of the month.

In the spirit of being economical and a conscious consumer, take the time to try brewing coffee at home as well. Sitting around with friends after a big night out is a great time to make some fresh brew to share.

Emilie's Coffee home brewing tips:

•Buy freshly roasted beans, and make sure to use them within 10 days of their roast date. Perhaps consider some of the great local roasters: 49th parallel, JJ bean, Origins, Moja etc… There are also numerous cafés binging in amazing beans being roasted in other parts of Canada and the States. Try buying smaller bags to be able to keep it fresh.

•The right grind makes all the difference. A little coarser or finer will change the body immensely. Burr grinder can be pricey but worth the investment. Avoid pre-grinding your beans, as they will lose freshness faster.

•Get to know your Brewing method.

I'm keen on the ceramic Cone dripper at the moment, which we use at work instead of a drip machine. It’s easy to clean and makes for a clean cup of coffee as well. Nuances in the beans will easily be accentuated.


The French press is also great, especially for anyone who has cream/ milk in their coffee. It gives the coffee more body due to the water being in contact for a longer period of time with the grinds.

For more information about brewing methods visit brewmethods.com



COFFEE CAKE

For the crumb topping:
1/3 cup melted non-dairy butter, such as Earth Balance
1/2 cup turbinado sugar or brown sugar
1 cup spelt flour
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

For the cake:
1 1/2 cup spelt flour
3/4 cup natural cane sugar, organic if possible
2 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teasp salt
1 flax egg ( 1 tablespoon flax meal + 3 tablespoons water)
1/2 cup non-dairy milk of your choice
1/8 cup apple sauce
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Prepare the crumb topping – melt butter, set aside to cool. In a medium bowl combine sugar, flour and cinnamon. Then add butter and mix until ingredients are fully wet. You will have globs of sugar mixture.

Prepare the cake – Combine flax and water first. Then in a medium bowl combine milk, apple sauce, vanilla and flax egg. Mix well. Then add dry ingredients. Mix until all flour has been combined, but be careful not to over mix.

Pour batter into a 9 x 9 baking dish that has been lightly sprayed with cooking spray. Now evenly add your crumble to the top of the cake batter.

Bake for 40 minutes. Check with a toothpick to make sure cake has fully cooked.

Serve with coffee. Duh!

Photography: Vasho Pekar

Coffee Cake Recipe: The Clean Eating Mama

Special thanks to Rick Martin at Momento Café