Spring Side

Spring crops are a shameless display of freshness and youthful exuberance.

Crisp bunches of asparagus, with their deep purple tips and bright green stalks, are a favourite of mine at this time of year. They're a perfect side dish, and don't require much doctoring at all. The secret to perfect asparagus is to barely cook it so it stays crunchy and crisp.

Here's a simple take on the first asparagus of the season, with a refreshing nod to early summer.

ASPARAGUS WITH LAVENDER & GHEE

1 bunch asparagus, blanched
1 Tablespoon melted ghee (clarified butter)
1/2 lime, juiced
pinch of sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoon of lavender, crushed

Cut asparagus into 2 inch bits then blanch (drop in boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Remove and dip in ice water for 30 seconds to stop cooking process, then drain.)
Add melted ghee, lime juice & sea salt and toss. Garnish with lavender, crushed between your fingers.

To make this dish go from delish to decadent, dip asparagus in wasabi mayo. But remember: when it comes to eggs, go organic, or go home. Vegan mayo and margarine are always an option

Bon Appétit!

Food Fetish: Coffee

When Vancouver experienced a water shortage a few years back, the city's residents took it in stride.

We happily stopped watering our lawns. We jumped at the excuse to share steamy showers with friends and lovers. We gave in and bought over priced and wasteful bottled water. We went to the beach instead of the pool.

But when it came to coffee, we lost our minds.

At the café where I worked at the time, I was offered all manner of bribes to get that espresso machine up and running, muddy water and all. As much as $20 was waved in my face to whip up an Americano on the sly. Talk about addiction...but also, talk about LOVE!

Almost everyone I know loves coffee, but it's usually a conditional love, dependent on sweeteners, syrups and dairy to smooth the bumps of their affection.

This month's food fetish star, however, is a true Connoisseur. Miss Emilie Nagahama appreciates coffee in its rich unadulterated form. In her journeys she has uncovered the most delicious roasts, sourced the most ethical farms, and experimented with the best brewing methods available. When you are this meticulous, you are bound to hit on something very special.

We caught up with Emilie at Momento, deep in the heart of Kitsilano. As a special treat, photographer Vasho Pekar came along to document the evening. A member of SHAH, Vancouver's premium D&B crew, Vasho supplies brilliant visuals, and sharp photography. He's also known for his stimulating and brilliantly curated underground art shows. He beautifully captured our favourite Coffee Angel's craft.

V: Is there really much more behind coffee other than it's spectacular mood enhancing qualities?

EN: Absolutely. Lots of people drink coffee without ever really appreciating the actual ‘taste of coffee’. Crazy but it is true. A medium roast vs. a dark roast takes a bean in two very different directions.

Ultimately it comes down to your own personal preference, of course. But there is definitely a lot of marketing and blinding techniques used by big corporations. Mainly: in roasting beans dark as can be, the beans become more bitter, so you’re more likely to use cream/milk and sugar. These create an additional craving in the body other than caffeine.

V: Tricky! But even straight-up black coffee is touted as being a guilty pleasure. Is it that bad for you?

EN: There’s talk about our bodies not being alkaline enough these days. To be perfectly honest, dark roasts aren’t going to help on that front, and they are notoriously difficult to digest. Medium roasts on the other hand, allow you to explore the nuances of a coffee's flavour because it hasn't been completely cooked out. They're also easier on the gut. Drink a glass of water afterwards to ease digestion. If consumed in moderation, coffee is definitely an indulgence your body can handle.

V: "Cash Crops" have a pretty bad reputation these days, especially those imported to Canada from abroad. How can we fit coffee into our lives without supporting unethical practices?

EN: It's true, many people are not familiar with where coffee comes from, nor do they realize the lack of sustainable practices used to make coffee for the 'usual suspect' big corporations. Most farmers make next to nothing for their hard work.

It’s important to recognize the value in supporting Fair Trade, Direct Trade and Organic Farms. Under these systems, farmers and farm hands receive fairer treatment and wages, as well as greater security. Your favorite big name café may not be in line with these values – it’s something important to consider when purchasing coffee. In Vancouver we're lucky to have an abundance of cafés that serve Fair Trade coffees, so the choice is easy.

V: What drew you to the world of coffee making?

EN: I’ve been muddling about the coffee industry for the past few years uncovering the relationship between coffee farms and sustainable practices.

I love my work. It’s great to be able to impart the knowledge I've gained to the customer, rather than simply smile and send them on their way. I may not work as a Barista forever, but for the time being it’s my way of doing something beneficial to the sustainability movement while also gaining a greater appreciation for the things I choose to consume.

V: So what are some trade secrets on making the perfect cup?

EN: Making coffee is an art form that requires a lot of attention to detail as there are so many brewing variables. I love the environment in a café. There is always the opportunity to try something new and properly made. But it can add up to many dollars at the end of the month.

In the spirit of being economical and a conscious consumer, take the time to try brewing coffee at home as well. Sitting around with friends after a big night out is a great time to make some fresh brew to share.

Emilie's Coffee home brewing tips:

•Buy freshly roasted beans, and make sure to use them within 10 days of their roast date. Perhaps consider some of the great local roasters: 49th parallel, JJ bean, Origins, Moja etc… There are also numerous cafés binging in amazing beans being roasted in other parts of Canada and the States. Try buying smaller bags to be able to keep it fresh.

•The right grind makes all the difference. A little coarser or finer will change the body immensely. Burr grinder can be pricey but worth the investment. Avoid pre-grinding your beans, as they will lose freshness faster.

•Get to know your Brewing method.

I'm keen on the ceramic Cone dripper at the moment, which we use at work instead of a drip machine. It’s easy to clean and makes for a clean cup of coffee as well. Nuances in the beans will easily be accentuated.


The French press is also great, especially for anyone who has cream/ milk in their coffee. It gives the coffee more body due to the water being in contact for a longer period of time with the grinds.

For more information about brewing methods visit brewmethods.com



COFFEE CAKE

For the crumb topping:
1/3 cup melted non-dairy butter, such as Earth Balance
1/2 cup turbinado sugar or brown sugar
1 cup spelt flour
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

For the cake:
1 1/2 cup spelt flour
3/4 cup natural cane sugar, organic if possible
2 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teasp salt
1 flax egg ( 1 tablespoon flax meal + 3 tablespoons water)
1/2 cup non-dairy milk of your choice
1/8 cup apple sauce
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Prepare the crumb topping – melt butter, set aside to cool. In a medium bowl combine sugar, flour and cinnamon. Then add butter and mix until ingredients are fully wet. You will have globs of sugar mixture.

Prepare the cake – Combine flax and water first. Then in a medium bowl combine milk, apple sauce, vanilla and flax egg. Mix well. Then add dry ingredients. Mix until all flour has been combined, but be careful not to over mix.

Pour batter into a 9 x 9 baking dish that has been lightly sprayed with cooking spray. Now evenly add your crumble to the top of the cake batter.

Bake for 40 minutes. Check with a toothpick to make sure cake has fully cooked.

Serve with coffee. Duh!

Photography: Vasho Pekar

Coffee Cake Recipe: The Clean Eating Mama

Special thanks to Rick Martin at Momento Café

Seafood de Cliquot: A Conversation with Marine Biologist Sarah Harper

I have a confession: I love seafood. As a strict vegetarian, it is the one animal product I miss.

For years I've struggled to reconcile my morality with my tastes. But I think I may have found a way to satisfy my palate and preserve my integrity. On my birthday.

For that one day of the year I give in to temptation and eat as much sustainably caught seafood as my 5'1" frame can handle.

But is that my best option? Is there an ideal solution?

Marine Biologist Sarah Harper feels passionately about seafood: about it's conservation and its gustatory value.

She shares her personal and professional views on this poignant issue with Vibrant Fare:

Truffles appear only at certain times of the year, in very specific locations and are harvested with the help of a well-trained truffle hog. The effort involved in finding them along with their scarcity cause these lumpy little fungi to cost as much as nice bottle of vintage wine. People pay a high price for having the opportunity to eat such rare delicacies.

Why shouldn't rare things cost more? Certain fish could be considered equally rare, however people want access to cheap fresh fish, every day. It's no wonder fish stocks are reaching dangerously low levels the world over.

For some people, fish is their main, and sometimes only, source of protein. Fishing is a way of life for tens of thousands of coastal dwellers in developing nations around the world who depend on seafood for their diet and livelihood. But for many of us, particularly in the developing world, we have options as to what, when and how much to eat. Our survival doesn’t depend on tuna tataki or ebi mayo, as lovely as that would be.

As a marine biologist witnessing the global fisheries in decline, I often tackle the question, “what is the most sustainable seafood to eat?”

There are many great tools out there to help educate even the most disinterested consumer as to which seafood dish is more sustainable than the next. SeaChoice has developed an iPhone application that will help answer this question while you are out and about. The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a handy wallet-sized booklet for the less tech-savvy that lists best and worst seafood choices (mailed upon request from Ocean Wise Program at the Vancouver Aquarium.)

But my personal response to this question is this: Treat seafood as you would a fine champagne. Have it very rarely, such as special occasions, and be willing to pay a little extra to get the trap caught spot prawns from BC or the wild sockeye from a healthy Alaskan salmon run.

I love eating seafood, but I also love the ocean for its amazing diversity of life. I have a vested interest in preserving that diversity. I am after all, a marine biologist and I would hate to see my profession go extinct!

-Sarah Harper, December 2010, Vancouver

For wonderful recipe ideas, check out
The Ocean Wise Cookbook: Seafood recipes that are good for the planet

I'll likely be dipping into this when my birthday rolls around again.
Tuna Tataki with Green Papaya Slaw? Yes please!




For More information about how to identify and source sustainably caught seafood please visit:

Monterey Bay Aquarium

Ocean Wise

Independant and Local Salmon Fisheries

For more information about the state of fisheries in Canadian and abroad please visit:

The Sea Around Us

The UN's Food and Agriculture Organization

And remember, when in doubt, Polenta with Roasted Veggies or String Beans with Miso Gravy are always waiting in the wings to make your belly happy!



For further inspiration, listen to this engaging talk by oceanographer and Living Legend Sylvia Earle.

Celebrating Japan's Vegetarian Traditions

I loathe owning lots of stuff. Especially heavy stuff.

I love feeling as though I could pack up my essentials in a few bags and be on my way, anywhere, at the drop of a hat. Because of this, I always give books away. I only keep those which are precious to me.

Despite this penchant for material minimalism, I have a collection of cookbooks that I would carry across a desert in heels.

My latest prize is Elizabeth Andoh's Kansha .

Elizabeth Andoh, owner and operator of Taste of Culture was one of my esteemed teachers of traditional Japanese cuisine while I studied in Tokyo. From her kitchen, with a view of iconic Fuji-san, Elizabeth demonstrates the preparation of sumptuous Japanese fare and extoles the beauty of seasonality. For those unable to have the pleasure of joining Elizabeth in her kitchen, she also offers an online culinary classroom .

I'll admit that I enjoyed my torrid affair with
Pescetarianism while I lived in Japan.

Upon my return to Canada, however, I immediately ran back to the comforting arms of pure Vegetarianism.

At first I worried that I would miss out on all the wonders that Japanese cuisine has to offer. With it's liberal use of dashi and obvious plethora of fish and seafood entrees, what's a Veggie girl to eat at her favourite Izakaya? I embarked on a journey to discover what was still available to me, and to approximately recreate what was not.

Admittedly, having lived in Japan for 40 years, Elizabeth is much more adept at the task than I've been. Which is why I was overjoyed to hear that she published Kansha, where she lovingly displays the wealth of animal-free ingredients and recipes that do in fact thrive within the well-established walls of Japanese culinary tradition.

Kansha and the knowledge Elizabeth imparts is truly a gift to Chefs, Aesthetes, and Veggie people everywhere.